A knitwear designer from London’s Central Saint Martins’ MA Fashion course, Xavier Brisoux designs collections where knitting is built like a story: yarns are used for words, the stitches for vocabulary, the theme becomes the fabric. Knitwear is poetry and concept for him as he mixes material and technique to structure the idea. He often draws his inspiration from history as well as from the general and founding myths, from which he derives his knitted textiles stitch by stitch. One of his collection was for example based on Penelope, the weaver-unweaver wife of Ulysses. His mastery of knitwear allows him a total control of possibilities: de-knittable sweaters, challenging constructions and sculptural stitches. Brisoux knits this territory of an all-ispossible with an apparent nonchalance.
After having developed his own collections for several years, the knitter questions fashion and its cycles, and starts working with a different perspective. For him, it is now more important to work towards perfection than towards a deadline. A new long-term project is born. It is then a matter of creating knitted armours where he pushes the technique and the craft into the boundaries of their fragility. The Achille’s Echo series is born. The myth of the Trojan hero is at the origin of this research. It aims at conveying the fragility behind an apparent invincibility, to draw a futuristic look inspired by the ancient Greece myths while assuming other historical and fashion references, and to enhance the anatomical aspect of the armour in parallel with the organic appearance that they adopt when they are not worn.
Xavier Brisoux sets himself as the Hephaestus of Knitwear, shaping unique pieces with the acceptance of the time necessary for creation, its trial and errors. It is important that the garment besides being a technical feature becomes an architectural challenge. When Xavier Brisoux meets Isabelle Soum, he has started creating knitted shapes that are becoming objects more so than garments.